Take a plain low-top sneaker and change only the material of the upper, the part that covers the top of your foot. You get three quite different shoes. Leather is smooth and slightly glossy. Suede is leather that has been brushed on the inside face, which gives it a soft, matte, velvety surface called a nap. Canvas is woven cotton, light and a little rough to the eye.
The surface matters because it decides how much light the shoe throws back. Smooth leather catches light in a clean line along the toe and reads sharper. Suede soaks light up, so colour looks deeper and the shoe looks softer. Canvas shows its weave, which makes it feel casual and a bit worn-in from day one. Shape and colour matter too, but material is the quickest way to move the same sneaker up or down a dress code.
What are you wearing it with?
Leather is the all-rounder. Because it is smooth, it looks clean for longer, and it takes polish well when the creases at the toe start to show. A plain white or black leather sneaker is the one most likely to work with every other thing you own, from denim to tailoring.
Suede is the soft option. Its matte surface reads as warmer and a little more grown-up than canvas, and it hides the odd scuff better than smooth leather in mid tones such as sand or grey. The trade-off is weather: water and mud mark it, so it is a better fit for dry days and for people who walk less in the rain.
Canvas is the lightest. It is cool in summer and cheap to replace, and the visible weave makes the whole outfit feel relaxed. Check the care label before you wash it, since glue and trims do not always like a machine, and remember that a white canvas shows dirt quickly.
Shape and colour set the mood, but the surface decides how dressy it feels.
Start with what you wear most. If your week is a mix of work and weekend, leather is the safest first pair, because the same shoe moves between a crease and a pair of jeans. If your wardrobe is mostly relaxed layers in earthy colours, suede adds depth without changing the look. If it is warm, casual and dry, canvas is simple and light.
Think about the weather where you live. In a wet climate, smooth leather copes best and canvas copes worst. If you can only own two pairs, one leather and one in either suede or canvas gives you a dressier and a more relaxed option, and you can alternate them so each lasts longer.
It also helps to look at what you already own before you buy. A sneaker you have worn for a few seasons often looks better than a new pair, and second-hand leather sneakers in good condition are an easy way to try a surface for less.
Whichever surface you pick, a few things make it work at any budget. Look for an even, unbroken surface without peeling coating or patchy nap. Check the stitching and glue lines at the sole, which should be neat and flat. Choose a plain colour that matches two or three things you already own. And read the material label: genuine leather, suede and cotton canvas all age differently from synthetic lookalikes.