Two brown bags in the same shape can look like different objects. The reason is the surface. A smooth or patent bag throws light back in bright streaks. A suede bag soaks the light up and looks soft and even. The outfit around it does the same thing: satin shines, wool does not.
Below, pick a fabric for the outfit and a surface for the bag. The bag stays the same brown, so you can see what the surface changes on its own. The text names the effect: whether the pair is quiet, whether the bag adds polish, whether it keeps things steady, or whether the two compete.
Suede. Suede is leather with its underside finished to a soft, velvety nap. Because it reflects so little light, the colour looks deeper and the bag looks relaxed. It is the easiest surface to wear with other matt fabrics such as wool, denim and knitwear.
Smooth. Smooth leather is the classic. It has a gentle shine that makes an outfit look neat. It works across the board, but it shows every scratch, so condition matters.
Grained. Grained and embossed leathers have a pattern pressed into the surface. The small texture hides marks and cuts the glare, which is why this is the practical choice for a bag you use every day.
Patent. Patent has a glossy coating, so it is the loudest of the four. It is a strong accent against matt clothes and a poor partner for other shiny ones.
Colour tells people what you picked. Surface tells them how it feels.
You do not need to match surfaces, only to notice them. A useful rule: count the shiny things in the outfit. Satin shirt, leather boots, patent bag is three. One or two is a look; three starts to look like a sale rack.
It also helps to vary the weight. A soft suede bag against a stiff wool coat gives contrast that has nothing to do with colour. A structured smooth bag against a loose knit does the same in reverse.
Suede is the surface that needs a plan. It absorbs water, so even light rain can leave marks. A suede brush lifts the nap and clears dust, and blotting a spill straight away, without rubbing, gives you the best chance of keeping it clean. Do not use leather conditioner or polish made for smooth leather on it: it can darken or damage the nap. Keep suede in a dust bag, away from direct sun, and be careful with light suede against dark denim, because dye can transfer.
At any budget, check four things. First, an even nap or surface with no bald patches or streaks. Second, a colour you can wear with several outfits, such as brown, black or taupe. Third, straps and edges that are neatly finished, because suede wears fastest there. Fourth, a clear material line, so you know whether you are buying real suede or a suede-look fabric.